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	<title>Comments for O2Compost Hot Topics</title>
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	<link>http://www.o2compost.com/blog</link>
	<description>Successful Manure &#038; Waste Management</description>
	<pubDate>Wed, 19 Nov 2008 21:43:19 +0000</pubDate>
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		<title>Comment on Horse Manure Odors, Flies and Neighbors&#8217; Complaints by peter</title>
		<link>http://www.o2compost.com/blog/2007/11/15/horse-manure-odors-flies-and-neighbors-complaints/#comment-939</link>
		<dc:creator>peter</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Wed, 12 Nov 2008 18:16:28 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.o2compost.com/blog/?p=27#comment-939</guid>
		<description>Ron - I suspect that composting will destroy the efficacy of crab grass, however, I haven't tested it specifically. There is an easy way to test any specific type of seed or plant part to confirm that composting does, in fact, destroy its reproductive viability.

First, place a sample of the material being tested in a nylon mesh bag and place the bag in your compost pile (the O2Compost Micro-Bin is ideal for this). If you are testing seeds, these should first be placed in a short tube of nylon stocking (i.e. 6" length of panty-hose), knotted at both ends making it easy to retrieve them after the trial.

Second, compost the entire batch for ~30 days, ensuring that pile temperatures exceed 131 degrees F for at least 3 days.

Last, remove the nylon bag. Place the composted seeds or plant material in a garden pot with good quality potting soil and/or garden soil and perform your own growth trial.

Let me know what you learn from your trials.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Ron - I suspect that composting will destroy the efficacy of crab grass, however, I haven&#8217;t tested it specifically. There is an easy way to test any specific type of seed or plant part to confirm that composting does, in fact, destroy its reproductive viability.</p>
<p>First, place a sample of the material being tested in a nylon mesh bag and place the bag in your compost pile (the O2Compost Micro-Bin is ideal for this). If you are testing seeds, these should first be placed in a short tube of nylon stocking (i.e. 6&#8243; length of panty-hose), knotted at both ends making it easy to retrieve them after the trial.</p>
<p>Second, compost the entire batch for ~30 days, ensuring that pile temperatures exceed 131 degrees F for at least 3 days.</p>
<p>Last, remove the nylon bag. Place the composted seeds or plant material in a garden pot with good quality potting soil and/or garden soil and perform your own growth trial.</p>
<p>Let me know what you learn from your trials.</p>
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		<title>Comment on Horse Manure Odors, Flies and Neighbors&#8217; Complaints by ron</title>
		<link>http://www.o2compost.com/blog/2007/11/15/horse-manure-odors-flies-and-neighbors-complaints/#comment-938</link>
		<dc:creator>ron</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Mon, 10 Nov 2008 22:59:48 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.o2compost.com/blog/?p=27#comment-938</guid>
		<description>Can composting also do the same with crabgrass? If so, what are its nitrogen/carbon characteristics? I also know that corn gluten can be used as an effective organic pre-emergent control but it sure is expensive!</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Can composting also do the same with crabgrass? If so, what are its nitrogen/carbon characteristics? I also know that corn gluten can be used as an effective organic pre-emergent control but it sure is expensive!</p>
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		<title>Comment on Compost Marketing Hints by chris will</title>
		<link>http://www.o2compost.com/blog/2006/11/07/compost-marketing-hints/#comment-669</link>
		<dc:creator>chris will</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Wed, 09 Apr 2008 15:30:31 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.o2compost.com/blog/?p=11#comment-669</guid>
		<description>Peter Moon I talked to you last year in regards to the O2 system. I lease my stable to Dr. Bennitt with 9 horses. I have talked to her about the possibility of promoting the system county wide and for our own use. I would welcome your thoughts on a "standard box" that could be sold,rented or leased to local horse owners with the finished product being picked up. Has the compost been tested for consistency? What amount of finished product would you get from a 10 yard box? Is loss about 60% like in other compost methods? I would like to work on a business plan model if any of this seems feasible. thanks chris Savoy Ma.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Peter Moon I talked to you last year in regards to the O2 system. I lease my stable to Dr. Bennitt with 9 horses. I have talked to her about the possibility of promoting the system county wide and for our own use. I would welcome your thoughts on a &#8220;standard box&#8221; that could be sold,rented or leased to local horse owners with the finished product being picked up. Has the compost been tested for consistency? What amount of finished product would you get from a 10 yard box? Is loss about 60% like in other compost methods? I would like to work on a business plan model if any of this seems feasible. thanks chris Savoy Ma.</p>
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		<title>Comment on Cold Weather Adaptation by peter</title>
		<link>http://www.o2compost.com/blog/2008/01/10/cold-weather-adaptation/#comment-661</link>
		<dc:creator>peter</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Thu, 03 Apr 2008 20:34:39 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.o2compost.com/blog/?p=30#comment-661</guid>
		<description>Email received from Brent Danielson on 2/29/08:

Peter, I have been meaning to email you for a week or two about the results of adding the soil-heating wires. Our weather has been very cold with overnight temps falling to single digits almost every night and often much further than that. Yet, after a lengthy time to thaw the manure, I saw one of the more beautiful sights one could ask for - heavy steam billowing from the manure bins in the moonlight. Temperatures of -15F and yet we have a bin temperature of 150F.

So all is well and perking away, even though spring remains unsprung and there is no sign that it might ever arrive.

Brent</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Email received from Brent Danielson on 2/29/08:</p>
<p>Peter, I have been meaning to email you for a week or two about the results of adding the soil-heating wires. Our weather has been very cold with overnight temps falling to single digits almost every night and often much further than that. Yet, after a lengthy time to thaw the manure, I saw one of the more beautiful sights one could ask for - heavy steam billowing from the manure bins in the moonlight. Temperatures of -15F and yet we have a bin temperature of 150F.</p>
<p>So all is well and perking away, even though spring remains unsprung and there is no sign that it might ever arrive.</p>
<p>Brent</p>
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		<title>Comment on Horse Manure Odors, Flies and Neighbors&#8217; Complaints by peter</title>
		<link>http://www.o2compost.com/blog/2007/11/15/horse-manure-odors-flies-and-neighbors-complaints/#comment-233</link>
		<dc:creator>peter</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Tue, 18 Dec 2007 18:34:10 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.o2compost.com/blog/?p=27#comment-233</guid>
		<description>&lt;p&gt;I believe that composting Bermuda Grass and achieving a minimum temperature of 131 degrees F throughout the pile for at least 3 days will effectively destroy the stolens and seeds. While I have not tested Bermuda Grass specifically, I have tested Japanese Knot Weed, Horse Tail, Scots Broom, and a variety of other tenacious plants and invasive weed seeds, all with 100% success.&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;p&gt;As I "preach" in my workshops, we learn by doing, so let's give it a try.&lt;/p&gt;
</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>I believe that composting Bermuda Grass and achieving a minimum temperature of 131 degrees F throughout the pile for at least 3 days will effectively destroy the stolens and seeds. While I have not tested Bermuda Grass specifically, I have tested Japanese Knot Weed, Horse Tail, Scots Broom, and a variety of other tenacious plants and invasive weed seeds, all with 100% success.</p>
<p>As I &#8220;preach&#8221; in my workshops, we learn by doing, so let&#8217;s give it a try.</p>
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		<title>Comment on Horse Manure Odors, Flies and Neighbors&#8217; Complaints by kathy katz</title>
		<link>http://www.o2compost.com/blog/2007/11/15/horse-manure-odors-flies-and-neighbors-complaints/#comment-208</link>
		<dc:creator>kathy katz</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Fri, 14 Dec 2007 18:50:27 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.o2compost.com/blog/?p=27#comment-208</guid>
		<description>I have another question.Will the heat of the system actually kill Bermuda grass stolens and seeds?  I like to compost my horse manure but i have never found anything that actually kills Bermuda Grass.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>I have another question.Will the heat of the system actually kill Bermuda grass stolens and seeds?  I like to compost my horse manure but i have never found anything that actually kills Bermuda Grass.</p>
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		<title>Comment on Test Piles by kathy katz</title>
		<link>http://www.o2compost.com/blog/2007/09/27/test-piles/#comment-161</link>
		<dc:creator>kathy katz</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Mon, 26 Nov 2007 05:36:04 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.o2compost.com/blog/?p=21#comment-161</guid>
		<description>Ok Peter, thanks for the reply. On to the next question.  while the horse manure accumulates the fly situation the first few days is THE problem, here in southern California.  Any clues?  It isn't the compsting tinme that is the fly problem, but the first three or four days.  Even if I cover the manure it develops flies. I do not want to spray with chemicals.  Is there nothing to be done?Is there no natural way to knock down or control flies before the compost gets going?</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Ok Peter, thanks for the reply. On to the next question.  while the horse manure accumulates the fly situation the first few days is THE problem, here in southern California.  Any clues?  It isn&#8217;t the compsting tinme that is the fly problem, but the first three or four days.  Even if I cover the manure it develops flies. I do not want to spray with chemicals.  Is there nothing to be done?Is there no natural way to knock down or control flies before the compost gets going?</p>
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		<title>Comment on Horse Manure Odors, Flies and Neighbors&#8217; Complaints by Charles Hunt</title>
		<link>http://www.o2compost.com/blog/2007/11/15/horse-manure-odors-flies-and-neighbors-complaints/#comment-156</link>
		<dc:creator>Charles Hunt</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Mon, 19 Nov 2007 13:18:15 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.o2compost.com/blog/?p=27#comment-156</guid>
		<description>Thanks for the heads up. I have farms in GA &#38; FL and know that my days are numbered before these sort of articles will be directed my way. Planning and changing now is my only hope to keep doing what I love.

Keep me posted!!</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Thanks for the heads up. I have farms in GA &amp; FL and know that my days are numbered before these sort of articles will be directed my way. Planning and changing now is my only hope to keep doing what I love.</p>
<p>Keep me posted!!</p>
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		<title>Comment on Micro-Bin Cover Design by Mike</title>
		<link>http://www.o2compost.com/blog/2007/10/04/micro-bin-cover-design/#comment-94</link>
		<dc:creator>Mike</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Tue, 09 Oct 2007 03:00:30 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.o2compost.com/blog/?p=25#comment-94</guid>
		<description>Hi - I use burlap coffee bags from organic fair trade coffee roasters as interior covers for my compost piles. Going with organic coffee helps insure there is no pesticide residue on the bags. The bags are a waste product for roasters.
Mike in Toronto</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Hi - I use burlap coffee bags from organic fair trade coffee roasters as interior covers for my compost piles. Going with organic coffee helps insure there is no pesticide residue on the bags. The bags are a waste product for roasters.<br />
Mike in Toronto</p>
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		<title>Comment on Test Piles by peter</title>
		<link>http://www.o2compost.com/blog/2007/09/27/test-piles/#comment-93</link>
		<dc:creator>peter</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Mon, 08 Oct 2007 19:05:04 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.o2compost.com/blog/?p=21#comment-93</guid>
		<description>Sweet PDZ is an inert mineral (Zeolite) and should have no effect on worm health.  

Our objective with composting is for the pile temperatures to exceed 131 degrees F for at least 3-days.  These temperatures are much too hot for worms to survive, and therefore it is best to introduce the worms after the pile has begun the secondary curing phase at lower temperatures.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Sweet PDZ is an inert mineral (Zeolite) and should have no effect on worm health.  </p>
<p>Our objective with composting is for the pile temperatures to exceed 131 degrees F for at least 3-days.  These temperatures are much too hot for worms to survive, and therefore it is best to introduce the worms after the pile has begun the secondary curing phase at lower temperatures.</p>
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