Aerated Micro-Bin System
Frequently Asked Questions
- Why
do the bins come apart?
- After
the 30 days of curing is complete, can the bin be reused to start
another batch?
- Do
you recommend installing more than one bin?
- Should
the bin(s) be constructed on a cement slab?
- Why
is only the front panel braced?
- What
is the purpose of the valve?
- Is it better to buy the optional manifold from
you or can I purchase the materials locally?
- Is glue recommended on the couplings and pipes
for the interior of the bin?
- Should the holes in the manifold pipe face up or
down?
- If I drill my own holes in the aeration pipe,
what should their size and spacing be?
- How
long can unprotected plywood be expected last?
- We
rarely experience freezing temperatures. Is the insulated bin
necessary?
- Do we need to provide the blower with a weather-proof
cover to protect it?
- Does
the manure pile need watering on a routine basis after the blower
is started?
- What
if we get a lot of snow or rain - will it affect the system?
- Do
I wait until the bin is full before turning the air on?
- Under
what conditions should I restrict the volume of air flow when
using a gate valve?
- How
do I know when the curing is complete and that bin is available
for its next load?
- What
if I decide to convert from the small, portable system to a larger,
permanent system?
- Is
my observation correct in that the hexagon model appears to hold
three times more?
- I'm
using wood pellet bedding. Should I use this for the recommended
6" layer over the pipes?
- Can
I use wooden pallets for the side of the bins? Should I cover
the ground with gravel?
- Is
it beneficial during the curing stage to incorporate air into
the pile?
- Should
we continue to monitor the temperature of the pile during the
curing stage?
- What
temperatures are to be expected during the curing stage?
- If
needed, can the pile be "re-heated" to ensure the destruction
of weed seeds?
- My
bin is heating up well over 131°F even before I turn on the
blower. Is this a problem?
- Any
ideas for eliminating the need to shovel the manure from the wheelbarrow
into the bins?
- If
I move a curing pile out of a bin, will the disturbance affect
the final curing process?
Why do the bins come apart?
The bins do not have to come apart. We thought that if the
bin could be disassembled, you could set it up in the area you plan
to use the finished compost to minimize handling. Also, after 30
days of active composting, you could remove the bin and reassemble
it to begin another batch, while allowing the first composted pile
to sit and cure for an additional 30 days. Removing the bin will
also allow you to easily pick up and transport the compost with
a tractor. Back to top
After the 30 days of curing is complete,
can the bin be reused to start another batch?
Here is my thinking on how to best operate the system. Once
you have completed the active phase of composting, the four sides
of the bin are disassembled, moved to a new flat location, and reassembled.
It can then be filled either daily (i.e. progressively) with fresh
manure, or immediately with stockpiled manure (although it shouldn't
be much over 30 to 60 days old). The manifold can be moved and if
you want to go to the trouble of recovering the pipes beneath the
original pile, these too can be reused. Alternatively, you can simply
use new sections of aeration pipe to connect up with the original
manifold. Back to top
Do you recommend installing more than one
bin?
The ideal setup would be a three-bin system. One bin would
be filling while the second is composting and the third is curing.
Three bins would allow for continual rotation with the air flow
being diverted from one bin to the next as needed.
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Should the bin(s) be constructed on a cement
slab?
The idea of the micro-bins it to keep aerated composting as
simple as possible. Concrete will help but it is not critical to
the composting process. With regard to water quality, we always
want to prevent compost leachate from entering standing or flowing
bodies of water. I think that level ground is a more important factor
than soil vs. concrete. If you bin is placed on level ground, the
forces induced by the compost on the side walls of the bin will
be less likely to cause it to slump to one side. Back
to top
Why is only the front panel braced?
The front panel has a horizontal brace so that the upper section
can be cut and temporarily removed to make it easier to lift the
manure into the bin. It is only replaced as the manure
reaches the top. Back to top
What is the purpose of the valve?
When the valve is placed between the blower and bin, it allows
you to control the volume of air going into the bin which allows
further control of the pile temperature. When one blower is used
to provide air to two bins, it allows you to adjust the proportion
of air going to the "old bin" and "new bin",
which requires additional oxygen at the early stages of composting.
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Is it better to buy the optional manifold
from you or can I purchase the materials locally?
All of the parts for the aeration manifold should be readily
available at your local hardware store. The training manual specifies
which parts to purchase and the related lengths of pipe to cut.
We offer the manifold kit as a convenience for those prefer not
to go to the effort to obtain, cut, and assemble the materials.
Back to top
Is glue recommended on the couplings
and pipes for the interior of the bin?
Glue is not necesssary. I would recommend using duct tape if
you have problems with pipe separation. Back to top
Should the holes in the manifold pipe face
up or down?
We recommend that the holes in the pipe be placed in the downward
position. Typically, the manure will get enough air in the Micro-Bin
even with the holes facing down. That said, if you feel it is necessary,
it certainly won't hurt to add a couple holes to the side of the
pipe as well. The rate of air flow is best controlled by the optional
gate valve and not by the number of holes or their location. Back
to top
If I drill my own holes in the aeration
pipe, what should their size and spacing be?
If building a second or third bin, you can save time by purchasing
perforated pipe with the holes already drilled. However, if you
wish to drill the holes yourself, we would recommend that they be
3/8" and spaced approximately 4" apart. Back
to top
How long can unprotected plywood be expected
to last?
Marine grade or treated plywood will certainly last much longer
than untreated. Unfortunately, I do not yet have a good idea of
how long the wood can be expected to last. Unless the plywood delaminates
because of exposure to wet conditions, I would guess that it will
last at least a year. Back to top
We rarely experience freezing temperatures.
Is the insulated bin necessary?
If you seldom experience freezing temperatures, the insulated
bin will likely not be necessary. However, our objective with composting
is to achieve temperatures of 131oF for a minimum of three days.
During periods of prolonged cold weather, this may be difficult
to achieve in which case insulated wall panels may be warranted.
Back to top
Do we need to provide the blower with
a weather-proof cover to protect it?
While the blower is designed for all weather conditions, I
would expect it to last much longer if covered up. What works well
for me is an inexpensive Rubbermaid tub with a "mouse-hole"
notch cut out of one end and placed (inverted) over the blower and
extension cord plug. You don't want a tight fit because we need
a way for air to flow easily in through the notch. I put the blower
up on a couple of bricks so that it's not directly on the ground
and then place another brick on the cover to keep it from blowing
off in a storm. Back to top
Does the manure pile need watering
on a routine basis after the blower is started?
The right moisture content is critical and during the summer
months, desiccation is a problem. to prevent overdrying, one option
would be to construct a simple 8' x 8' frame made out of 2"
x 2"s with corner bracing. Use a staple gun to attach a layer
of plastic sheeting (visqueen) to the frame. The frame could lay
flat on the fresh, wet surface. To add new manure, prop up the frame
(front side up). After the new manure has been added: rake flat,
wet down, and lower the frame back in place. Back
to top
What
if we get a lot of snow or rain - will it affect the system?
Yes. Too much rain or snow can affect the pile temperature
which, in turn, impedes the effectiveness of the aeration. If you
anticipate either of these conditions, we recommend placing a tarp
over the top of the bin while it is filling. Once the bin is completely
full and you're ready to turn the air on, put a 6" layer of
sawdust or bedding on the top before replacing the tarp. Back
to top
Do
I wait until the bin is full before turning the air on?
Yes - and keep in mind that the "30 days" of composting
is a flexible time frame. The goal is to reach a temperature of
131 degres for at least three (3) days after the bin is full and
the blower is turned on. It is possible to reach that goal in less
than 30 days. Once the temperature begins to fall, the aerated composting
process is essentially complete. If you need to re-use the bin,
the compost can be removed at that point and placed in an area to
"cure" for another 30-60 days. Back to
top
Under
what conditions should I restrict the volume of air flow when using
a gate valve?
Most people find that controlling the volume of air by the
frequency and duration of air flow is adequate, with the exception
of extreme cold weather conditions. However, the valve may be used
to further congtrol the volume of air going into a single bin. In
this situation, I would suggest beginning with a 1/4 open valve
setting combined with a 30 second on-time every 30 minutes. As the
pile temperature comes up, progressively increase the openness of
the valve within the first 3-4 days of operation and observe the
change in temperature within the pile. Note: to determine temperatures
at different depths in the pile, you can drill 3/8" holes in
one side of the bin and insert your temperature probe horizontally.
Alternatively, the valve gates are also used to balance air flow
between two separate bins. Back to top
How do I know when the curing is complete
and that bin is available for its next load?
You can most easily tell when compost is well cured by the
way it looks and smells. It should have a dark, uniform texture
and it should have a gentle, soil-like fragrance. A sharp or sour
odor indicates that it is not done. In an ideal world, earth worms
will find it and further enhance the quality. Back
to top
What if I decide to convert from the
small, portable system to a larger, permanent system?
All Beta-Test Participants are eligible for a $500 discount
on an O2Compost Bin or Bay Training Program. In some cases, participants
may discover that a small portable compost system does not meet
their operating requirements and that a larger, permanent system
becomes a “must-have” item. In this case, we are ready
to rebate the cost for your Beta-Test program in exchange for the
original Starter Kit blower, timer and temperature probe. Back
to top
Is my observation correct in that the
hexagon model appears to hold three times more?
Yes. The hexagon-shaped model does have a larger capacity.
While it will take longer to fill, the greater volume will help
you retain heat, thereby expediting the composting process. Back
to top
I'm
using wood pellet bedding. Should I use this for the recommended
6" layer over the pipes?
Since you are using wood pellet bedding, there will be sufficient
porosity in the mix itself and, therefore, no "6-inch layer"
will be needed. This applies when the mix of materials is dense
and restricts airflow. You never want to use hay or straw to cover
the pipes because when it gets wet it loses its structure, becomes
"slimy" and actually restricts airflow. Back
to top
Can
I use wooden pallets for the side of the bins?
You can certainly use pallets to serve as your side walls,
however this does compromise the airflow by providing pathways for
the air to short circuit. Similarly, with a clean gravel base, air
may flow through the gravel instead of the compost mix in cases
where this becomes the path of least resistance. In both cases,
tendency toward air loss can be mitigated by lining the sides and
bottom of the bin with plastic sheeting. Another alternative would
be to line the pallet walls with sheets of plywood. The beauty about
a system like this is that you can simply and inexpensively try
different combinations to determine which approach works best for
you. Back to top
Is
it beneficial during the curing stage to incorporate air into the
pile?
No air is needed at this point, however, it doesn't hurt either.
Back to top
Should
we continue to monitor the temperature of the pile during the curing
stage?
It is expected that the curing pile will slowly glide back
to ambient temperatures. You do not need to continue monitoring.
Back to top
What
temperatures are to be expected during the curing stage?
I would expect temperatures to be somewhere in the 80 to 100
degree range, but it could be hotter or cooler depending on the
ambient air temperatures and volume of the curing pile. Back
to top
If
needed, can the pile be "re-heated" to ensure the destruction
of weed seeds?
Assuming that you have gone through a high-heat cycle and are
in the curing phase, the pile temperatures will not come up again
because there is not sufficient "food value" for the microorganisms.
However, if you were to mix your compost with grass clippings (lots
of nitrogen) at a 50:50 ratio, then you may be able to regain the
heat needed to destroy the weed seeds. Back to top
My
is heating up well over 131°F even before I turn on the blower.
Is this a problem?
No, this is not a problem. In fact, by providing access to
passive airflow at the bottom of the pile, you are facilitating
a "chimney effect" which allows the hot air in the pile
to rise up through the mix, pulling fresh air into the core of the
pile to replenish the oxygen. This effectively "stokes"
the composting process. By exceeding 131°F for three days (even
prior to induced aeration) we are destroying parasites, pathogens
and weed seeds. Back to top
Any
ideas for eliminating the need to shovel the manure from the wheelbarrow
into the bins?
There are three ways that folks have handled this issue.
- One of our clients built a ramp that allows them to roll
up and dump over the open front.
- Several beta-testers have expanded the basic bin design
from 4'x4' to 4'x6' to allow them to dump manure using their front-end
loaders.
- Several have opted for a manure bucket on a dolly that can
be lifted over the top of the open side.
If you have the option of using sloping ground to your advantage,
construct a simple retaining wall (even 2 to 3-feet high) and deliver
the manure from the high side. Similarly, you could construct a
loading dock-type platform with lumber to give you the needed elevation
rise. Back to top
If
I move a curing pile out of a bin, will the disturbance affect the
final curing process?
It is a good idea to move the material to an intermediate /
long-term storage area. This provides an opportunity to remix the
materials and re-wet as needed. Typically, we see a slight bump
in temperatures when we do this, however, I'm not certain this will
happen with smaller volumes.
When moved, it is a good idea to minimize the amount of further
turning because this does break up the fibrous-mesh of fungi actinomycetes
(white stuff). "Do nothing" is my kind of multi-tasking.
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